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2. Place your back foot on the extended CTE line and fall on the shot with your chin/nose descending down on top of that line.*

3. Land on the table with your bridge hand short of your normal bridge length with a certain spot on your bridge hand** directly on top of the CTE line.

4. Push your bridge hand up to your normal bridge distance on the "track" provided by the CTE line while pointing your tip to the outside edge of the CB at the equator.***

5. When you reach your normal bridge length, pivot the tip along the equator to the exact center of the CB. That is your Line of Aim. Note the spot on the OB that the tip points to. You will see that as the cut angle changes, executing the above procedure will cause the tip to point to different places on the OB and/or off the OB entirely on thinner cut angles.

NOTE that this method goes "off" when the CB and OB are very close together and when certain cut angles are reached. I find that the cut angle goes off at about that angle created by placing the CB at table center on the head string and the OB about 1/2 diamond below the foot string.

* It is actually correct have your nose/chin SLIGHTLY inside the CTE line.

** That spot is normally the inverted ^ formed by the index finger of the closed bridge or the center of the thumb pad of the open bridge. But bridge configurations vary and it is CRUCIAL to locate the correct spot for each player. See my "string experiment" to find the correct spot.

*** The pivot as described serves two purposes. 1. It gets the shaft out of the way so that you can continuously see the CTE line and 2. It helps to created a consistent bridge distance.

Courtesey billiards.colstate.edu 

The three cut billiards aiming system is used by the worlds top players in all billiards sport. The "Three-Cut Billiards aiming system" Is the purest and most scientific aiming system there is and it is based purely on ball geometry. There are only three cuts you need to learn to master the art of pocketing pool balls. They are: ¼, ½ and ¾ cuts.All other angles will be slight variations of these three.

The foundation of the three cut aiming system is using your imagination to cut the object ball into four equal slices, beginning with a slice directly down the middle of the ball to create two halves.

By again slicing the ball with your imaginiation in equal parts perpendicular to the first cut creating the ¼ and ¾ ball cut

This knowlede will help you imagine the ball as if it were flat like a piece of paper rather than a 3d object.

Now with this knowledge. The far left and right edge of the object ball represents a perfect half ball cut. You can see this clearly by using our "Paper ball" example(fig. 1) You see when we place our paper ball example over the object ball aligning the canter of our cue ball with the edge of the yellow object ball, you see that the edge of the cue ball is now perfectly aligned with the center of the yellow ball.

Shifting the paper ball to the left until the left edge aligns wiht the ¾ slice, you will see that the center line of the cue ball is 14mm inside the right edge of the yellow object ball and aligned with the ¼ ball slice.(Fig.2)

In moving the cue ball in the opposite direction you will see that the center line of the cue ball is now 1mm outside the right edge of the object ball and that the left edge of the cue ball is aligned with the ¼ slice This is a ¼ ball cut shot (Fig.3)

 VIDEO LESSON DR. D

The "Stop Shot" "Stop Ball" or "Stun Shot" is accomplished when the cue ball stops dead with contact from your object ball.

This is accomplished by precise power and a below center or center cue ball hit.

The hardest part about this shot is guaging how much power and [[English]] to use.

The closer you are to your object ball the less power and English you will need.

With too much of either one, you may turn your stop shot into a massive draw shot.

 VIDEO LESSON DR. D

The "Follow Shot" is one of the more heavily used shots in the game of pocket billiards.

It is accomplished when the cue ball makes contact with the object ball, stops momentarily, and then continues moving forward.

This is caused by the foreword spin of the cue ball causing friction with the table cloth.